I wanted a new cap for the big Reagan event, one that was made correctly. This means all single layers, finely finished edges, and whipped gathers. The pattern is my own, based on period shapes. I guess you would call this a cap with wings; the ruffle is narrow at the top and widens near my ears and cheeks. It is made of fine linen and sewn with linen thread.
To construct this cap, I cut out all my pieces from the linen and finished each piece separately with a narrow hem. I gathered the crown an then placed it edge to edge with the band. The gathered part of the crown I whipped to the band, but the ungathered bits I slip stitched so the stitches wouldn't be seen. Then came narrow hemming and whip gathering the ruffle. Once it was gathered, each individual gather was whip stitched to the band.
(Speaking of the Reagan event, I will have a post on that soon! Just got home so I'm still unpacking and sorting through things...)