2017 Plans

My hand is really hurting right now, so I almost feel foolish for writing this out... But daydreaming about sewing plans still makes me happy, so *shrug*.

Right now I'm dying to start the historical Star Wars cosplay I came up with last night. I finally struck on an idea that I really like and would be easy to make (no hard-to-find fabrics or intricate accessories and I don't mind using undergarments I already have). I've got a couple months' lull now that it's winter and I think it would be pretty quick to make. 

So... here's Edwardian (c.1904) Leia! I just bought the fabric, too, a silk/cotton blend ottomon (ribbed). Still need to figure out what to do for the belt, but that can definitely wait until the dress is finished.


Next will be either a cotton print sack gown or a 1560s ensemble. It all depends on if I can go back home for Faire in May. Unfortunately these gowns are pretty labor intensive and would have due-dates within a month of each other, so I don't know if I can pull off both. But we'll see!


Finally, I have three gowns that need to be made for a very special event in September, one of which I'm embroidering! I've already got the skirt panels ready to start working on, so hopefully it will be finished in time... 

Then it will be time to get ready for Gettysburg in November, and I think I'll finally make a new full mourning dress. The fabric has been waiting very patiently in my stash!

2016 Year in Review

I feel like I was constantly sewing something this year but have very little to show for it. In truth, I think I spent many nights after work just being lazy, as I'm finding it harder to come home after sewing all day to...sewing all night. And as I mentioned in a previous post, my wrist/hand is still causing me problems even after the surgery. I'm planning to see my doctor in the new year but I'm not hopeful.

In addition to sewing at work and sewing at home for myself, I took commissions for two other museums, which I didn't get pictures of before sending them off. But my work is now on display at Mount Vernon and the New York Historical Society.

Another issue is that there are quite a few garments that I made this year but haven't gotten pictures of, or they're wearable but not "finished" and thus not photographed. But hopefully I can start taking care of that in the new year, at least for my 1860s ball gown and 1616 gown.

• Half Mourning Dress remake 
• 1780s Dutch print gown
• 1616 silk damask gown--needs pictures
• 1860s black satin ball gown--needs a bit of work... adjust waistband of skirt, maybe make a new bertha, redo the piping along the waistline--and then pictures!
• Fur-trimmed paletot--need to finish trim then take pictures
• 1860s tucked petticoat--needs pictures
• 1860s cage crinoline--needs pictures
• Late 18th century shift
• Early 17th century wool gown
• 1842 green wool dress--need to do the bodice trim then take pictures, but here's a sneak peak!

It's probably worth noting too that I organized and ran a conference at work and got a raise and promotion!

Even thought I didn't sew a lot, I went to many wonderful events (like Costume College!) and had a great time with friends regardless of if I was wearing an "old" dress. Next year promises to have some great events as well. I haven't quite figured out what my 2017 sewing goals are, but there will be a blog post when I do!

Early Seventeenth Century Wool Gown

I've been wanting to make a new early 17th century gown for some time now, mostly because I have learned so much since I made my green wool outfit. The idea behind the gown was for it to be representative of a common woman's Sunday/holiday best. This year's Publick Day event was the perfect excuse, although I waffled over whether or not to make something new until about two weeks before the event. So this gown was handsewn in two weeks, amid work and everything else. Michael blocked new hats for both of us. He is becoming quite the talented hatter!

These pictures are from the gown's third wearing, on Thanksgiving for my work's annual event. Someday I'll starch my darn cuffs enough that they won't start going wonky after a few minutes! I'm wearing the gown over my newest petticoat with upperbodies.

Ignore the white threads all over me; I was sewing a shirt!

   

  

Gettysburg Remembrance Day 2016

Emma and I had a fantastic time at Remembrance Day this year. I got to visit and catch up with so many old reenacting friends and meet some lovely new ones. It made me realize how much I miss reenacting... It feels like we never get out to events since we moved to Virginia. We were much more active in Michigan! There are still things to do around here, but it's not the same, at least for me. I miss the camaraderie of being in a unit. 

The weather for the most part was FANTASTIC, so much so that I didn't really bother to finish my paletot. It was wearable but definitely not picture-ready. But almost immediately after the parade ended, the winter squall blew in and it hailed. Yes, hailed. I've never seen weather turn so quickly in my life!

We attended one of the balls and a tea and I had my picture made. I can't begin to tell you just how pleased I am with this tin type. I haven't been able to capture with my phone just how crisp the real image is. And I'm really pleased with my outfit. I try to get tin types made whenever I can because for me it's about the process of creating an image so authentic it could be mistaken for the real thing. I think we got fairly close this time. ;-)

I did finish my black ball gown, but didn't get any good pictures of it. Plus I wasn't happy with how the bertha turned out and have already ordered new lace for it! So it will get pictures and a blog post once that arrives. Here's a peak at the skirt, for now.

Can't wait for next year! 

 

 

We took two trips to Needle and Thread... I got some basics like brown and black polished cotton for linings and facings and white cotton sateen for new Regency stays. My big splurge was worsted wool flannel in the most amazing green color for a secret project (sorry!) which was priced almost twice what I like to pay for worsteds but I couldn't pass up that color. It's the same color as the 1840s dress I started, which I need to finish for Agecroft in two weeks! Then I got a pretty striped cotton for probably something Regency and a sheer striped black silk for an 1860s sheer dress.

  

Felicity's Suprise: At Last!

My grown-up version of Felicity's Christmas gown is done at last! You can read all about the design process over at my Livejournal. There are a few more pictures over there too, and at Flickr.

Early 1780s Dutch Print Italian Gown

This ended up being my favorite gown to wear at Costume College. Comfortable and easy to wear!

The gown is entirely hand sewn using period construction methods and was draped on the body. I wore it with fine muslin wrist ruffles, kerchief, and petticoat, as well as the beautiful silk gauze apron that Emma made for my birthday.

 

      

A Gown for Gettysburg

I meant to do a write up about Costume College, but it never happened... Doing it now seems too late! I had a good time this year but I still felt like I missed hanging out with people as much as I would have liked. For some reason I was exhausted the whole time and went to bed super early each night... which I really regret now but at the time I just couldn't handle it. Sad...

But I've been very busy since then with lots of sewing. I need to finish a commission for a museum by the end of September and then I can go full steam into my wardrobe for Gettysburg Remembrance Day in November. I plan to wear my black and white checked silk gown during the day but with a new black wool paletot trimmed in black fur. And I talked myself into a new ball gown for the Friday night ball!

Yes, it's a black ball gown. :) I'm making it out of silk/cotton satin and it will be trimmed with antique black lace and lots of ridiculous bows. It makes my little black heart happy! Here's my Pinterest board on black evening gowns:https://www.pinterest.com/reinedecoudre/black-evening-gown/

I also need to finish adding tucks to my petticoat, and I desperately need new drawers and a chemise as well. And also a new corset! So lots to do before November 18!

Getting closer...!

My Gala gown is wearable! I would say it's done but I just remembered a few things I want to neaten up. But I'm really excited to wear it! It was a huge pain for the longest time and I'm still not happy with the fit, but oh well. 

Can't wait to see you all at Costume College!

Conference-Surgery-Costume College!

I don't even know where to begin...

So much has happened in the past two weeks, but I don't have the energy or dexterity to write out a detailed post on it all. You may have noticed my previous posts about the 17th century clothing conference I helped organize. Well, it finally happened last weekend! It really was just my boss and me running this show, which was horrendously exhausting but so worth it in the end. The feedback we have had from our participants and presenters is just overwhelming. The conference included tours, workshops, lectures, and interpretive demos. Everyone had a fantastic time and learned so much. We assembled a veritable powerhouse of 16th and 17th century clothing historians and costumers, including The Tudor Tailor, and it all took place at Jamestown Settlement. We partied in the reconstructed fort and ate fantastic food, and watched the sun set over the James River from the deck of one of the recreated ships. It really couldn't get much better than that!

But right after a showstopping weekend, I went right into wrist surgery. It was just time to get it over with. That means all sewing has come to a screeching halt, and everyday tasks are pretty painful, including typing! So while I want to gush about what a fantastic event I helped put on and how much I learned, I physically can't. I also am desperate to sew but, again, I can't. My doctor is quite sure that the surgery will be the cure to my troubles, but I won't really know until everything is healed up. I'm less confident. I just hope I can finish the last few things I need to do before Costume College...

Here's just a few pictures from the conference, and links to other folks' albums. There are too many great pictures to share them all here!

Jen Thies' photos from the weekend: https://www.flickr.com/photos/52716085@N00/sets/72157670331598125

From the fort party, by Fred Scholpp:
 


By Victoria Dye:



And a couple of me in hospital and my wrist! :-P

Come See The Tudor Tailor in Virginia!

As part of the three day conference at Jamestown Settlement, The Tudor Tailor is giving an entertaining presentation on June 24 that is open to the public! After the presentation, you can shop at The Tudor Tailor store, chat with Jane and Ninya, and examine reconstructed garments, all while enjoying complimentary refreshments. Organizing this conference has been the biggest project of my short career, and I'd love for you to be there!
This presentation on June 24, 2016 from 7-9 p.m. by The Tudor Tailor is based on exciting new research to be published in their next book, The Typical Tudor.

'As I lie dying'

See inside the wardrobes of two Elizabethan women living in England in the 1570s and go through their garments to discover how very differently they live their lives. Barbara Bundock, a much-married merchant’s widow, and Margery Trollope, a soap and candlemaker, meet for a gossip and to enjoy their favourite conversation – the ailments they suffer and their imminent gathering to heaven, which they have discussed weekly for more years than either can remember. Each is blessed with clothes that represent their wealth and standing among their neighbours. They are competitively well-informed as to the relative value of their dress: the raw materials, where they come from, who made them and how they rival each other in quality and cost. But their clothes also carry a heavy burden of responsibility as tokens to be passed on to friends and family. Not only must they decide who is most deserving of their own garments, there are many items of their husbands’, which demonstrate their doings in more detail than is necessarily comfortable. Barbara and Margery assess which of their grasping friends and family may benefit from the best rather than the worst items on offer.

Join Jane and Ninya for this lively presentation and dressing demonstration which draws on the wealth of material gathered by The Tudor Tailor team since the publication of The Tudor Tailor ten years ago, and gives enjoyable insights into the exciting new content of their forthcoming book The Typical Tudor.

http://www.historyisfun.org/learn/homeschool-scouts/historic-clothing-conference/

Instagram Update

I'd been working on my 1780s Dutch print gown but had to set it aside to finish a commission for a museum. While I don't take commissions from private customers (I know better than that now! I genuinely dislike it...), I do make exceptions for museums. The gown just needs sleeves cut, sewn, and attached, and then it's done! The tiny pleats were a headache and they aren't as even on the inside as I would like, but the outside looks great and that's what matters, right?

 
Yesterday a bunch of the materials for my secret (?) Gala gown arrived! I'm so excited to start this, but commission first...


Other things occupying my mind and my time have been taking more time and care in my outfits and appearance. Some recent favorites...

Canary in a Coal Mine

I bought seven yards of this silk satin because the price was good, but I had no idea what I was going to do with it.

Then Crimson Peak came out. :)

So someday... hopefully in the not-too-distant future, I'll make a gown inspired by Edith's!
 

 

Check out this FIDM blog post for some AMAZING detail and in-progress shots of the iconic costumes.
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/04/crimson-peak.html