tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9450551148240268192024-03-17T23:00:38.172-04:00The Couture CourtesanSamanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.comBlogger217125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-70002391695736483582020-01-27T21:25:00.000-05:002020-01-27T21:40:46.451-05:00Who Am I?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A little while ago there were some powerful stories circulating on Instagram about the experiences of people of color in the costuming community. As a person of mixed race myself, I felt both saddened and strengthened to read about these experiences and know what I wasn't alone. I didn't share my own experiences at the time because it can be painful and emotionally exhausting to do so, and I applaud those who had the strength to share.<br />
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Yesterday I posted a video on my Facebook that interviewed mixed-race people to talk about their experiences. In the ongoing discussion about race in America, mixed race people's voices are just beginning to be heard. The people interviewed spoke to the ambiguous place that mixed race people occupy, never feeling fully a part of any culture and continually being "othered" by white people and people of color.<br />
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My identity as a person of mixed race is something that I have struggled with my entire life, and I am still on a journey of understanding and acceptance. Even though this blog is almost entirely for sharing my historical clothing research and recreation, there's no denying that my racial identity is a huge part of me as a person, an historian, an artist, and a maker. So read on if you'd like. If you're just here for pretty pictures, I'm hoping to have a new costume post very soon and you can check back later.<br />
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My grandmother, Michiko Watanabe, came to America in the 1950s after she married my grandfather, Arthur Stickel, an American sailor from Columbus, Ohio. He was stationed in Japan during the Korean War and my grandmother worked in a cafe in a train station. My grandpa's brother had survived the Bataan Death March, but was killed when the US sank an un-marked Japanese ship carrying POW's. It still amazes me that my grandpa's family embraced my Japanese grandmother the way they did, even though their son/brother had been a prisoner of the Japanese and died in their custody. When my grandma came to America, she stopped speaking Japanese except when talking to her family back in Japan. She learned to cook German-American food. She converted to Catholicism. She loved baseball. She took a job as an alterations seamstress in a department store in Columbus. She became, as much as possible, an American.<br />
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My grandpa loved musicals and movies and one of his favorite things was introducing me to his favorites. I'll never forget when he showed me the 1957 movie "Sayonara", about an American Air Force pilot in the Korean War who falls in love with a Japanese woman. He told me, "This is the story of your Oma and me." He also told me that the Navy chaplain who married them warned them to avoid the southern United States, since they would most certainly not be welcomed there as a married couple.<br />
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I was told that because of illness, my grandma couldn't have children. My grandparents adopted my mother, born of Chinese-American parents, in Los Angeles, where they relocated. My uncle, of Chinese and French descent, was also adopted. My mom and uncle weren't raised knowing anything about their Chinese culture, nor did my grandma teach them how to speak Japanese or cook them Japanese food. None of that stopped the racist teasing that my mom faced in school, because of course, she still looked Asian.<br />
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Both my mom and dad worked when I was growing up, but my grandparents lived around the corner from us and they were our after-school carers. I am so grateful to have had the close relationship I had with them. I absolutely took it for granted as a kid, which is one of my biggest regrets in life. I only know as much as I have shared with you thus far about their story, and I know there is so much more. My grandma sewed every Halloween costume, recital costume, and First Communion dress for me and my sister. She taught me the basics of sewing and absolutely laid the foundation for my passion and career. I owe so much to her. Still, I learned almost nothing about her culture. My culture? Even though I'm half-Chinese, I think I identify more with Japanese culture because of my grandmother, who at least was a living link to my "family" in Japan. She did teach me how to count to five in Japanese and say "Moshi moshi" when answering the telephone. But I was still a half-Chinese daughter of a Chinese-American woman adopted by a Japanese immigrant. What did that mean? Who was I?<br />
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I distinctly remember being ashamed of my tan skin and squinty eyes as a kid. I resented blonde characters on TV and in movies and always rooted for the brunette in a show because they were more like me even though they were white. I was in grade school when I experienced deep anxiety about my skin color, because of an off-hand comment that a friend said to me about it. My paternal grandmother tried to comfort me by telling me about her attempts to get a tan artificially and just turning orange. It still didn't help. My family often visited Hawaii when I was growing up, and while I felt most "normal" among the majority non-white population there, I still covered my skin in hats and rash guards at the beach because I didn't want to get any "darker" than I already was. I wanted to be white. And I'm going to be completely honest here--there are still times where I wish I was, especially when it comes to living history and historical clothing. I'm always surprised when people assume I'm white, especially in historical clothing, but deep down inside a tiny part of me is relieved.<br />
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My love of history and historical clothing has always been with me, even when I was little. I loved the period pieces my grandpa showed me, such as "The King and I." But I wanted to be Anna, not Lady Thiang or Tuptim. As I learned more about historical clothing and began to make things for myself and go to events, the micro-aggressions began trickling in. A reenacting friend asked me if I had ever considered portraying a Chinese woman during the Civil War (there were incredibly few, if any, Chinese women in America during the Civil War, by the way. And I shouldn't have to justify my existence to take part in a hobby). When I joined the Queen's Court at the Renaissance Faire, another courtier bemoaned "They're (the Asians) taking over!" (I was one of three Asians in the cast at the time). I could list a dozen other examples, but that's not really the point. And also, it's painful to relive them.<br />
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These instances related to historical clothing and living history are only a small part of the "regular" microaggressions that mixed-race people encounter on a daily basis. I have come to understand that most of the microaggressive comments and questions white people say to mixed-race people come from a place of curiosity or admiration (not quite the word I'm looking for but I can't come up with anything better) and not from malice. Undoubtedly the most common one is "What are you?". And you know what really hurts about this question? Think about the last time you saw a really cool looking dog out for a walk. You ask the owner if you can give the good boy or girl some pats. And then you ask "What kind of dog is it?" Well, asking "What are you?" feels like you're asking me what kind of dog am I. That I'm a mutt, a mongrel, and you want to know what purebred dogs make up this unique mix. It's not a compliment. It's not a conversation starter. You've made me feel like an animal. This analogy also works for another common comment I've received, that mixed-race people have better genes than.... purebred (?) people. My own health issues aside, it's also not a compliment. Neither is it comforting to be told that since so many Americans have multiple European nationalities in their heritage, that it's somehow the same as having mixed non-white ethnic heritage and "we're all one big melting pot!" It completely ignores the often painful experiences of mixed-race people and the centuries of racism that have shaped this country.<br />
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Perhaps what is most frustrating for me is the notion that the "gift" of being "exotic" or having a "unique" look that comes from being mixed-race somehow erases or makes up for the pain and confusion that also come from being mixed-race. It all comes down to what has been termed "othering", that is, making a person or group of people feel like they don't belong, that they're alien, that they're "not one of us." I'm here to tell you that whether you're a little kid or a grown adult, being "othered" hurts, especially when you already have no idea where you belong.<br />
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I know my friends and family love me regardless of my racial background. I know that my skills have value regardless of my racial background. But I still have to endure the microaggressions, stereotypes, and flat-out racism that come with my Asian-ness. And what's more, I don't have any connection to my Asian culture (again, would that be Chinese or Japanese?) in which to find comfort or identity. It's not uncommon for mixed-race people, even those who aren't partially white and instead are from different non-white cultures, to feel like they aren't fully accepted into the cultures that make them up. White people will never see me as white (and they shouldn't--I'm not white) but I'm not culturally Asian either, so how can I identify as Asian?<br />
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There is so much more I could say about this, but I've already said a lot. If you've made it this far, thank you for taking the time to read this. I'm not looking for compliments or to be told race and ethnicity shouldn't or don't matter and I should just love myself for who I am. The reality is that in our society today, those things do matter and they do affect our identity. My sincerest hope is that you, dear reader, will have learned something and will in the future stop to consider your words before you say or write them. Just because I've experienced hurtful and thoughtless words doesn't mean I am perfect and always say the right thing, because I don't and I'm human just like everyone else. What we need more than ever right now is to listen to each other, to affirm that what that person is feeling is valid, and to promise and endeavor to be better in the future.<br />
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com57tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-8255910979212649982019-12-03T23:07:00.002-05:002019-12-04T12:04:37.411-05:00Not-a-Pilgrim c.1620 Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I have been wanting to make a new early 17th century gown for some time, one that would demonstrate more of what I’ve learned in the past few years. I also wanted a posher gown than the one I had made previously. I also had recently done research into the 1620-24 entries of the Ferrar Papers, which provided documentation for women’s gowns being worn in Virginia.<br />
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With that in mind, I began looking for black worsted wool, which would be a solidly “nice” fabric for a woman of comfortable means but by no means wealthy. Worsteds, being lightweight and smooth, became increasingly popular from the middle of the 16th century for better garments. Black was a color that showed sobriety but also fashion sense. Obtaining a “true black”—not blue-black or natural sheep’s black—was an costly process compared to other colors (like red shades from madder or blue shades from woad) so black garments also showed the money invested in the material.<br />
For trim, I found a vintage wool lace that I dyed black. The last thing to source was the black glass buttons—actually manufactured for teddy bear eyes but made in a similar way to glass buttons from this period; that is, a wire shank inserted into the glass.<br />
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Studying period images led me to choose a “high-bodied” gown, a term used in original sources most likely to denote a gown with a bodice made high up to the neck with a color as opposed to a low, rounded neckline. You can see my Pinterest board of images by clicking on the picture.<br />
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Two gowns of this style are in <i>Patterns of Fashion</i>, but there is very little construction information given. None of the newer publications on 17th century dress have anything like them either. I decided to base the construction of the gown on the information in Patterns of Fashion on the woman’s doublet and on doublets examined in <i>Seventeenth Century Men’s Dress Patterns</i>. Since tailors we’re making women’s gowns during this time, I feel it’s safe to assume that women’s gowns would have been made using similar techniques.<br />
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The bodice is interlined with two layers of linen canvas and boned with synthetic whalebone. While boning in pairs of bodies and the bodices and sleeves of gowns had been the preserve of the elite at the end of the 16th century, it had begun to trickle down the social scale by the first quarter of the 17th century. A 1611 ordinance for the City of London actually forbade maid servants from having whalebone in their clothing, which encourages me to believe enough of them had done it for it to be considered a problem (the problem, of course, being dressing in a manner considered inappropriate for their station). And since this gown is for a woman who would have employed servants, it seemed reasonable to have boning in the bodice. I used a similar layout for the boning that is seen in the woman's doublet in <i>Patterns of Fashion</i>.<br />
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The outer layer of worsted was put together with the interlining. I whipped the seam allowances down to keep everything neat. The center front edges of the bodice are faced with black silk taffeta, as are the cuffs of the sleeves. The buttonholes are worked in silk buttonhole twist.<br />
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The tabs that make up the wings were each made separately, consisting of the worsted wool folded over a piece of linen canvas and trimmed with the wool lace. The tabs are mounted onto a single piece of taffeta and then the tabs are bar-tacked together to further keep them in place.</div>
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Next the lining goes in. First I laid in the back lining and then the fronts were laid on top and the seam allowances felled down at the side backs and shoulders. The lining was also felled down along the facings. Finally the black silk taffeta collar lining went in, again using a felling stitch.<br />
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To bulk up the skirt pleats just a bit, I put a strip of wool coating along the top edge if the skirt and folded over the excess fabric. The skirt is gauged (cartridge pleated) to the finished waist edge of the bodice.<br />
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A crisp white linen ruff, cuffs, and coif finish the outfit along with a black fur felt hat blocked by my husband. While this looks like the stereotypical garb of a Thanksgiving Pilgrim, it’s something that could have been worn by any Englishwoman of moderate means regardless of religious leanings.<br />
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Back in October, I used this gown to do an historical witch photoshoot, which was incredibly fun! </div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-9067143713225039542019-05-11T18:19:00.002-04:002019-05-11T18:20:24.259-04:00A Lady of the Knights of the Blended Rose, 1778: Part 2 Construction and Thoughts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Now on to the actual making of the gown!<br />
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I started with putting the petticoat together, which is something I usually do first with most of my projects these days. Not only is it usually the easiest part of an outfit, but I've accepted (after many years of not doing this) that it really is best to do fittings on the upper body over as many of the under layers as possible, which includes all of the petticoats you will be wearing. It just saves frustration and time because you know exactly where your waist is and how the petticoats and other layers affect the way the bodice will sit at the waist.<br />
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Once the petticoat was made and trimmed in the pink silk with fine silver lace, it was time to move on to the polonaise. I have no problem admitting this style of gown intimidates me, even though I made one last year for the Museum of the American Revolution. I also took a polonaise jacket workshop from Janea Whitacre back in 2014 so I wasn't going in to this completely unprepared. And since <a href="http://demodecouture.com/polonaise/">Brooke Welborn and Kendra VanCleave published their article on the "true" polonais</a>e, other costumers have made beautiful polonaise gowns. But I was anxious about how this style would look on me and if I would absolutely hate it after putting all that work into it.<br />
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There are a few variations within the polonaise style, so bear in mind that what I chose to do is not the only way to do things, although every choice was made based on a period example.<br />
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The back of my polonaise is cut similarly to an English gown, with a pleat on either side of the center back seam. This was done on<a href="http://collections.glasgowmuseums.com/mwebcgi/mweb?request=record;id=127144;type=101"> a beautiful polonaise in the Glasgow Museums collection</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BrujJas-4bg/XNc9zEN74rI/AAAAAAAABvw/kbr1oWVOuskrtAvGVySk4col0dYp6tW-gCLcBGAs/s1600/59802153_10215748662043137_3832789782287613952_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BrujJas-4bg/XNc9zEN74rI/AAAAAAAABvw/kbr1oWVOuskrtAvGVySk4col0dYp6tW-gCLcBGAs/s640/59802153_10215748662043137_3832789782287613952_n.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
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Glasgow Museums</div>
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I cut the back of the polonaise first and stitched the pleats on either side of the center back seam. Then I cut the fronts of the polonaise, which flow from neckline to hem without a waistseam. There is extra fabric at the side back that is pleated to provide fullness to the skirts and draw the polonaise closer to the body, allowing the fronts to fall away from the center point. I chose to make an attached "waistcoat" or under-bodice that is stitched at the side-back seams and the arms. Other options are a completely separate waistcoat or a stomacher, but I liked that an attached waistcoat would mean fewer moving pieces and it would provide a more fitted look (again, I was really concerned about not liking how a looser gown would look on me). The waistcoat fronts are lined but the fronts of the polonaise are not.<br />
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A look at the inside of the gown. Here you can see the wrong side of one of the polonaise fronts including the two pleats that run along either side back. The attached waistcoat is to the right.</div>
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Once the waistcoat fronts are whipped in, the interior looks similar to an English gown. </div>
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Because this style of gown doesn't have robings or a separate shoulder strap, I treated the polonaise and waistcoat fronts as one and backstitched the sleeve in all the way around. </div>
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Here are a few views of the gown with the skirts left down.</div>
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(Wow... I need much better photo-taking equipment...)</div>
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The outfit got to make its debut at the Colonial Williamsbur Garden Party, and Eliza came dressed in her costume for the ladies of the Knights of the Burning Mountain!<br />
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I was sewing up to the very last minute so I ran out of time to make the turban and veil the way I wanted to and in a way that would better represent what the descriptions say. I also didn't get to spangle the stockings! But I am very much looking forward to wearing this outfit again, with all of the accessories fully finished.<br />
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What would I change? After talking to Brooke Welborn about my polonaise and getting her advice, I'm going to put a diagonal tuck in the polonaise fronts (which will be hidden behind the trim) which will eliminate the folds you see in the front and help the fronts cut away from the center of the body a bit more. I need to re-set the bottom of the sleeves to eliminate some excess fullness. And I want to see if I can do anything to make the cape lay more nicely and not wrinkle so much. But I'm also an incurable perfectionist! I really did love wearing and making this outfit and hope to find another event to which I can wear it!</div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-32265225768075889542019-05-10T23:28:00.000-04:002019-05-10T23:28:03.659-04:00A Lady of the Knights of the Blended Rose, 1778: Part 1 Research and Design<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6vgENf6xJb0/XNYz-O6IorI/AAAAAAAABuc/W6RW2u_eMgc8DzWtIowAjbPgCc6cdFytACLcBGAs/s1600/59051915_10215714442427668_2564625148258811904_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="768" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6vgENf6xJb0/XNYz-O6IorI/AAAAAAAABuc/W6RW2u_eMgc8DzWtIowAjbPgCc6cdFytACLcBGAs/s640/59051915_10215714442427668_2564625148258811904_n.jpg" width="512" /></a></div>
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Last September I had the opportunity to portray the daughter of a prominent Philadelphia family, Peggy Chew, at the Occupied Philadelphia event organized by the Museum of the American Revolution (also in Philadelphia). It was incredibly enjoyable to explore and share the experiences of such a young woman, as her family was neither wholly Loyalist nor wholly Patriot/Rebel, but instead walked a fine line that many wealthy, established families did. It's all too easy to want to divide the participants of the American Revolution into either camp but the reality was much more ambiguous. Indeed, the event centered around the mixed feelings of Philadelphia residents and their new occupiers--or liberators, depending on who you asked.<br />
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Peggy and three of her close friends (the infamous Peggy Shippen, Rebecca Franks, and Rebecca Redman) constituted the "little society of Third and Fourth Streets", the most celebrated young ladies in Philadelphia. It was only natural that they caught the attention of the romantic and dashing Major John Andre when the British occupied the city late in 1777. Although Peggy Shippen is often suggested as Andre's main squeeze (as in the TV show "Turn"), it was Peggy Chew that Andre chose to be his "lady" for the most extravagant party of 1778.<br />
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The Meschianza was a wildly imaginative farewell party for General Howe, designed and orchestrated by the theatrical Andre himself. It was essentially Georgians reenacting their idea of the Medieval period, complete with knights and jousting. The knights belonged to one of two opposing teams: the Knights of the Blended Rose, in white and pink, and the Knights of the Burning Mountain, in black and gold. As Andre was a Knight of the Blended Rose, Peggy Chew and the other ladies were attired in their colors. (For more information about the Meschizanza, see <a href="http://www.cliveden.org/a-romantic-interlude/">here </a>and <a href="https://www.americanheritage.com/you-are-invited-mischianza">here</a>.<br />
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Because of the extravagant and unique nature of the Meschianza, considerable information about it is still available today, including descriptions and images of the costumes worn by the ladies. This was incredibly helpful for this project! I must thank <a href="https://silkandsass1776.wordpress.com/">Eliza of Silk and Sass</a> for instigating this crazy undertaking, and I'm very glad she did. She has been researching and portraying Rebecca "Becky" Franks, who was a lady of the Knights of the Burning Mountain, so we would conveniently have one lady from each group.<br />
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For the ladies of the Knights of the Blended Rose, we have the following descriptions.<br />
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Andre wrote an after-action report of sorts and described the costumes this way:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">They [the ladies] wore gauze turbans spangled and edged with gold or silver; on the right side a veil of the same kind hung as low as the waist, and on the left side of the Turban was enriched with pearl and tassels of gold or silver & crested with a feather. The dress was of the polonaise kind and of white silk with long sleeves; the sashes which were worn round the waist and were tied with a large bow on the left side hung very low and were trimmed, spangled, and fringed to the colors of the Knight.</span></span></blockquote>
A memoir by John Fanning Watson gives this description related by a fellow lady of the Knights of the Blended Rose, Miss Craig:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq" style="box-sizing: inherit; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<span style="background-color: white; box-sizing: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">He [Major Andre] sketched it [the dress] to give the ladies an idea of the garb they should assume. In reality it was this:– for the Blended Rose a white silk, called a Polonaise, forming a flowing robe, and open in the front of the waist– the pink sash six inches wide, and filled with spangles– the shoes and stockings also spangled– the head-dress more towering than drawing, and filled with a profusion of pearls and jewels. The veil was spangled and edged with silver lace</span></span></blockquote>
There is also a sketch Andre did of the headdress of a lady of the Knights of the Blended Rose:<br />
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Armed with this information, I set about gathering the materials for my polonaise gown and accessories. My dear Stephanie destashed some figured ivory silk and I got the remainder of the materials from various Etsy sellers. I had just enough silver metal boullion fringe to use on the ends of my pink silk sash, which is also spangled according to the description.</div>
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I had to use creative license for the design of the polonaise since their are no surviving images of the full outfit, but my design would still be strongly rooted in historical examples. I wanted to bring in the pink to the polonaise itself, not just in the sash, so I took inspiration from two-tone polonaise gowns that appear in French fashion plates and extant Spanish gowns. There is also an extant British polonaise in the V&A that is white with purple silk fabric trim, so I felt confident that my choice was within the realm of possibility. </div>
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Victoria and Albert Museum</div>
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Museu del Traje</div>
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This was the little sketch I did so I could better see my design:<br />
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This has ended up quite a bit more involved than I expected, so I will end here and put the construction of the polonaise and accessories in a second post! Check back later!Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-6203845512281115232019-01-01T14:07:00.002-05:002019-01-01T14:11:49.880-05:002018 Year in ReviewThis year was so incredibly busy, not only with sewing but with conferences and workshops as well. It didn't seem like I made much, but this list has helped prove otherwise, especially when I consider all of the little things like caps and mitts. Those count too! So here is what I did in 2018!<br />
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<u>Conferences and Workshops:</u><br />
*taught a B&T shift workshop<br />
*assisted a B&T sack gown workshop<br />
*planned and hosted our second 17th century clothing workshop featuring Jenny Tiramani and The Tudor Tailor<br />
*spoke at the Jane Austen Summer Program<br />
*spoke and taught at the inaugural Corsets and Cravats mid-19th century conference<br />
*wrote and performed a program on 17th century clothing at Agecroft Hall<br />
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<u>Contract Work:</u><br />
*two sets of clothing to represent Sally Hemings for Monticello's new exhibit<br />
*a silk gown representing Martha Jefferson for Monticello<br />
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*white silk Italian gown representing 1787 Eliza Hamilton</div>
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<u>Projects for Myself:</u></div>
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*17th century ruff</div>
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*1770s jacket (no picture)</div>
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*1770s cap </div>
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*black wool mitts (no picture)</div>
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*remake of 1616 gown</div>
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*tartan 1814 dress</div>
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*1820s bonnet</div>
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*1860s black evening gown</div>
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*16th century Belle gown</div>
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*1770s short sack and petticoat</div>
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*1770s pelisse</div>
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*1815 evening dress</div>
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*1676 gown</div>
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*1842 dress</div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com99tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-22280755549182764162018-12-07T12:59:00.001-05:002018-12-07T12:59:06.370-05:001676 Gown-in-Four-Days-ishThe theme of this post should definitely be #whenyouworkatamuseum.<br />
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My museum focuses on the first quarter of the 17th century about 99% of the time. Every now and then we get thrown a curve ball by the powers that be and are asked to do something outside of our usual time frame. For example, we're going to have a new "4-D" film experience in our galleries and it was decided it would be cool to have it be about Bacon's Rebellion in 1676, a little-known but rather interesting occurrence in early Virginia history. My colleagues and I in the historical clothing department had largely written off the project because the production company the museum hired would be doing the costuming themselves. Well, long story short, they needed last minute extras, so <a href="http://jezebeljane.blogspot.com/">Britney</a> and I did the crazy thing of making 1670s outfits for ourselves in less than a week so we could help with the filming. My friend Julie was in charge of the women's costuming for the project and was glad for some relief from being asked to make half a dozen 1670s gowns in a very short time frame (yay film!). All told, I made my gown in 4 full work days and a couple evenings at home. It's mostly machine sewn, even the eyelets because we have an awesome attachment for our Bernina 1008 machines. But since it was for film and no one would see this up close, it didn't matter!<br />
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Making this gown in that kind of time frame was ridiculous, but it totally gave me the bug for the 1670s-90s and I desperately want to make my own gown with more correct techniques in the future (this one technically belongs to the museum). Luckily I now have a perfectly-fitting pattern and a copy of Patterns of Fashion 5 (!!!) to help with construction. Even so, I think it looks darned good for a rush job! I find the bodice to be extremely comfortable and it's just a very flattering style and silhouette, even with the crazy hair.<br />
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The gown consists of a boned bodice ("smooth-covered stays" according to POF 5), a petticoat, and an over-skirt. Everything is silk taffeta and the trim is vintage real metal lace that had been sitting in the shop for ages because it's really too fancy for what we do here. To get dressed, I put on my shift (and stockings, shoes, etc) and then a plain under-petticoat and the pale blue silk petticoat over that. Next the bodice goes on, lacing in the back. The over-skirt was pleated to a tape which ties in the front under the center point of the bodice, with the skirt covering the tabs of the bodice that go around the waist.<br />
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The wig... Oh, the wig! I love this thing. It's the super cheap "Boogie Babe" wig you can get on Amazon for like $15 bucks and it's awesome for how cheap it is! I bought it on Britney's recommendation for late 1790s stuff but it very handily became a 1670s style for the filming so I didn't have to curl my own (ridiculously long) hair.<br />
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We did take a bunch of pictures on set in costume but we technically can't share them until the project is finished some time next year. Thankfully my dear <a href="http://blog.katielovely.com/">Katie</a> was willing to take pictures for me when she and her husband visited us for Christmas. I love how they turned out! So here is the 1676 gown of madness...<br />
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-9354827622355421632018-11-04T20:20:00.002-05:002019-12-03T23:22:14.762-05:00It's a Cloak! It's a Mantle! It's... A Pelisse!I've had an 18th century pelisse on my to-do list for a while, and an outdoor event in Philadelphia was the perfect excuse to finally do it. Back in July, I got some changeable silk satin from the garment district in LA for his project. I decided to take the fur off of my early 19th century pelisse and reuse it because it would be quicker and cleaner than cutting up the other vintage fur coat I have. I made the pelisse in just a couple days (when I should have been working on a commission). It was pretty cozy even in some very brisk autumn weather!<br />
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So what is a pelisse? Isn't that a coat-dress worn for outerwear in the early 19th century?<br />
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Yes...<br />
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But in the last half of the 18th century, it refers to a particular style of cloak-like outerwear that is often trimmed in fur. Interestingly, it's the English in the early 19th century who <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037656855582/">use the word "pelisse" to describe the coat-dress worn for outerwear by women</a> and the French <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037650504771/">use the word "redingote" to describe the same thing</a>, while using <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037657244875/">"pelisse" to still refer to the 18th century cloak-like outerwear</a> (and the winter coat of hussar style uniforms). Confusing, I know! But using the correct terminology can help us have a better understanding of period clothing by allowing us to think about the clothes the way the original wearers and makers would have.<br />
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<a href="http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18mantelet.shtml">Garsault gives instructions for making a pelisse in his 1764 publication L'Art du Tailleur. </a>Reading through how a pelisse is cut and constructed tells us how it differs from cloaks and mantles in the 18th century. The pelisse is made up of rectangular panels that are pleated to fit the neckline (they also have gores added to the bottoming the panels to increase the hem that are cut from the top of the rectangles, like 18th century shifts). Extant cloaks, on the other hand, are cut as slightly-more-than-semi-circles that can have some gathering to fit the neckline. Garsault's mantelet is short and the bottom edge is shaped to dip in front and come up over the elbows. Pelisses in images tend to be about hip length or slightly longer, and Garsault's measurements produce such a garment. Other common features of pelisses are a large hood falling over the shoulders and slits in the front for the wearer's arms. Below are just a few examples; you can see more on <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/reinedecoudre/18th-century-pelisses/">my Pinterest board</a>.<br />
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And without further ado, here's my pelisse!</div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-61329527129761404872018-08-14T20:01:00.000-04:002018-08-14T21:03:58.516-04:00Fall/Winter 2018-2019<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I can't believe that all of the events I wrote about in my January post have come and gone! My fall and winter are already full of events, some of which need sewing and some of which need writing and performing. Silly me, thinking I'd "take it easy" for the rest of the year... ;-)</div>
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My sewing plans are as follows:<br />
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<li>second set of clothing for contract museum work (shortgown, petticoat, kerchief)</li>
<li>French farthingale and silk bum roll for a presentation at Agecroft Hall</li>
<li>1787 Eliza Hamilton gown for the Museum of the American Revolution--more on this later!</li>
<li>finish cotton print short sack and petticoat, cover hat for event at MoAR</li>
<li>remake my 1815 spangled ball gown for the RSV Victory Ball</li>
<li>early 1840s "Jane Eyre" dress, bonnet, cloak, and petticoat for Victorian tea/Christmas at Agecroft</li>
<li>Dress-in-a-weekend program at MoAR--more on this later!</li>
<li>fancy dress-ify my black 1860s evening gown for Victorian 12th Night</li>
<li>1530s gown for SCA 12th Night</li>
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Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-40003883241722577262018-08-14T15:09:00.003-04:002018-08-14T15:09:39.346-04:00Early 1860s Black Evening GownThis was my favorite outfit for Costume College this year, and I felt like it deserved a blog post! I'm also hoping to get back into blogging more regularly. I've got some exciting projects planned for the rest of the year and I want to share them with you!<br />
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So this gown I actually made two years ago, but the bertha was never quite what I wanted and the bodice ended up being a smidge too small. I bought another two yards of the fabrics--silk/cotton blend satin from Robert Kauffman--to make a new bodice and bertha. I also became the recipient of dozens and dozens of yards of vintage chantilly lace about a week before Costume College, and it was perfect for the bertha and headdress. I'm contemplating continuing the trim on the skirt all the way around as well. This dress is already pretty luxurious, so why not go all out?<br />
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I knew I wanted a black evening gown, but I had to contend with some "rules" surrounding black for young women. Namely that it just wasn't done because it was considered unbecoming for young women who should be in white and light colors, and that it wouldn't have looked well with the lighting of the time. But the large quantity of black formal gowns in portraits, fashion plates, and extant garments on women about my age encouraged me to make the gown anyway. And I'm probably not a "young lady" by 1860s standards anymore, as I'm married and pushing 30. ;-) So if I was in my late teens or early 20s, I probably would stick with a frothy tulle confection in light colors (but I already made that dress). I'm also not considering this a "ball gown" meant for dancing. It's an evening gown for formal evening occasions.<br />
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So here's some of my inspiration images. There is also a description of a black evening dress from a fashion magazine. My<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/reinedecoudre/black-evening-gown/"> Pinterest board</a> has all of the images I've collected, from the 1840s-60s to give a good range and show that they aren't as uncommon as one might think.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; letter-spacing: -0.4px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">"Princess Louise (1848-1939)", Albert Graefle, 1864; Royal Collection Trust 400765</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; letter-spacing: -0.4px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: x-small;">1861 Marii Sawiczewskiej by Leopold Löffler </span></span></div>
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<img alt="Contrast-weave box-pleated pleats CIVIL WAR ERA BALL GOWN BODICE W RUFFLE PLEAT TRIMS" height="316" src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/20/d1/93/20d193a2e8fde90d4a60161b315eb15c.jpg" width="320" /></div>
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Bodice from eBay</div>
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Peterson's 1861</div>
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and the description: </div>
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So with that, I present my gown! I'm so happy with how it fits and looks. The only thing I want to change it to make the bows on the skirt out of velvet. But that's it! And I'll be changing it up slightly for a fancy dress party in January, so look for this gown again in the future.</div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-75465583828624359012018-01-03T22:46:00.001-05:002018-01-04T10:49:43.090-05:002018 Plans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">It's going to be a busy year...!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>January</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Jane Austen Evening: I'm wearing my embroidered gown!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>February</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Burnley and Trowbridge shift workshop:I'm teaching this one again, so I need to get my handouts in order...</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>March</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Burnley and Trowbridge sack gown workshop: I'm assisting Brooke Welborn with this workshop. I can't wait to learn from her! </span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*MOH fashion show: I need to make an 1890s skirt to go with the jacket of my bicycling outfit to make a "normal" daywear outfit. I'm one of the organizers for this and providing a lot of garments for it. Need to make sure they're in good repair and wearable!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Francaise dinner?? I probably don't have time for this but I really want to go... And I have a new sack gown started!</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>April</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Agecroft performance: I'm doing a first-person performance and I'm very excited to put my theatrical and creative writing skills to use! I'll need to finish my 1616 bodies, make alterations to 1616 gown, and make a lace ruff and cuffs, bum roll, vizard... And memorize the show!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large; letter-spacing: 0px;">*Ft Fred: I'll be shopgirl for Burnley and Trowbridge which means I need clothes for 4 days! There's no telling what the weather will be this far in the future... This event is notorious for crazy weather! I'll probably be altering my brown wool gown and making a second wool petticoat.</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>May</u></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><span class="s1"></span>*CW Garden Party?? It's so expensive but it looks delightful and it's in my backyard...</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>June</u><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*Tailored to a New World Conference: try not to lose my mind while running this conference again! My 1616 gown will be wearable for this though, so that's exciting. </span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">*JA Summer Program at Chapel Hill: I'm giving a lecture at this! There will be a masked ball but I will probably just wear my spangled ball gown and be some sort of flower fairy...</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>July</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Costume College: 1530s or 40s Tudor gown for the Gala. I doubt I'll have time to make anything else specifically for CoCo, but that's okay! There are lots of things that I can wear.</span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><u>August</u></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;">Corsets and Cravats 1860s Symposium: I'm giving a lecture and teaching two workshops! There are a couple social events in the evenings at which we are encouraged to dress in period clothes, so right now my plan is to make a black Swiss waist and white corsage</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">After that... I don't know! Which is fine with me! Well, I will probably go to Gettysburg Remembrance Day, but this is quite enough to think about for now! :)</span></div>
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</style>Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-78954253419521299572018-01-02T22:42:00.003-05:002018-01-02T22:57:43.078-05:002017 Sewing Year In ReviewI was a TERRIBLE blogger this year! It's just so much easier to share pictures on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/thecouturecourtesan/">my Facebook page</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/couturecourtesan/">Instagram</a>, and I haven't had it in me to do any serious construction or research posts. Hopefully that will change this year!<br />
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Even with my continuing wrist and thumb issues, I sewed a bunch of things in 2017. The biggest project was my embroidered Regency gown, which I never got pictures of in France! Hopefully that will change at the 12th Night dinner this Saturday, if it doesn't get canceled due to snow... Being part of the imperial court at Malmaison was a dream come true, but definitely used a lot of my sewing mojo. I haven't been able to get in a good groove since then although I still made many little things after that.<br />
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So without further ado, here's what I made in 2017:<br />
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*1860s half mourning dress</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RJTpEZFQeko/WkxPtRkWjuI/AAAAAAAABqs/orU-u0_BzPQykl7Cdd8BxDsJu1ih9brrQCLcBGAs/s1600/17202775_1914604425440033_827849138148351792_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RJTpEZFQeko/WkxPtRkWjuI/AAAAAAAABqs/orU-u0_BzPQykl7Cdd8BxDsJu1ih9brrQCLcBGAs/s640/17202775_1914604425440033_827849138148351792_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*1560s gown, kirtle, partlet with ruff, cuffs, and hood (This needs a new hood and a photo shoot with the ruff and cuffs properly ironed!)</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qmqsnrfr3AY/WkxPtbB4E9I/AAAAAAAABqw/YmMyh5fSRycj6dGkaYyV-1kW_VVXG9ptACLcBGAs/s1600/18582650_1953897774844031_7077145749489502059_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qmqsnrfr3AY/WkxPtbB4E9I/AAAAAAAABqw/YmMyh5fSRycj6dGkaYyV-1kW_VVXG9ptACLcBGAs/s640/18582650_1953897774844031_7077145749489502059_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*Late 1770s stays</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QsCL73gLsCw/WkxPtd_A4wI/AAAAAAAABq0/DCoY3V_XZpcVROi32HxgXXL1NyVJN6HzwCLcBGAs/s1600/18620138_1955643004669508_4001217735490415203_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="776" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QsCL73gLsCw/WkxPtd_A4wI/AAAAAAAABq0/DCoY3V_XZpcVROi32HxgXXL1NyVJN6HzwCLcBGAs/s640/18620138_1955643004669508_4001217735490415203_n.jpg" width="516" /></a></div>
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*Bernhardt early 19th century stays</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y-EJGm2LSJE/WkxPuQmtmjI/AAAAAAAABq4/mzErI8QJetMoqBh22w0F8M7rx044OxaXQCLcBGAs/s1600/19554329_1974580436109098_6001813778886382374_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y-EJGm2LSJE/WkxPuQmtmjI/AAAAAAAABq4/mzErI8QJetMoqBh22w0F8M7rx044OxaXQCLcBGAs/s640/19554329_1974580436109098_6001813778886382374_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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*Madder-dyed wool petticoat with upperbodies</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Vv3LJyQVqg/WkxPuhwPEFI/AAAAAAAABq8/AjTLMs3sQvIxoKbXxVh7-G3PW9Hc5BRawCLcBGAs/s1600/19990297_1982474565319685_2155560581699300147_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1Vv3LJyQVqg/WkxPuhwPEFI/AAAAAAAABq8/AjTLMs3sQvIxoKbXxVh7-G3PW9Hc5BRawCLcBGAs/s640/19990297_1982474565319685_2155560581699300147_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*The Embroidered Gown! </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDGJfbWYtqc/WkxPu_scYsI/AAAAAAAABrE/9pikMpJ0clwrQjVnQXC_7h_1ZliyENuHQCLcBGAs/s1600/21034251_2026233940943747_3947897498059624688_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BDGJfbWYtqc/WkxPu_scYsI/AAAAAAAABrE/9pikMpJ0clwrQjVnQXC_7h_1ZliyENuHQCLcBGAs/s640/21034251_2026233940943747_3947897498059624688_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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*1807 Ensemble for Malmaison: striped muslin gown, striped silk pelisse, organdy chemisette, bonnet, and a new shift</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--CIs2stTf7E/WkxPvYyV5VI/AAAAAAAABrI/iEFWAiTp4gk07AkLgHOubt0yU28shnk8wCLcBGAs/s1600/22049944_2044340739133067_1823205817506137203_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--CIs2stTf7E/WkxPvYyV5VI/AAAAAAAABrI/iEFWAiTp4gk07AkLgHOubt0yU28shnk8wCLcBGAs/s640/22049944_2044340739133067_1823205817506137203_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*Dimity gown, checked linen apron, and striped linen petticoat</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UBUI9ic2F9M/WkxPu8b7-CI/AAAAAAAABrA/g9BzWgPVZfYhT0zB2_0m1Wm-WDfP_mO-wCLcBGAs/s1600/21271206_2031848683715606_1400005553987501243_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UBUI9ic2F9M/WkxPu8b7-CI/AAAAAAAABrA/g9BzWgPVZfYhT0zB2_0m1Wm-WDfP_mO-wCLcBGAs/s640/21271206_2031848683715606_1400005553987501243_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*Dark fairy/witch/Hecate/Halloween gown</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4M8d-NyKANw/WkxPvosN46I/AAAAAAAABrQ/xCEzp0TYOdQkhhoqtyS9BuzRqfoc9wqcACLcBGAs/s1600/22894147_2061827437384397_2786637793703359024_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4M8d-NyKANw/WkxPvosN46I/AAAAAAAABrQ/xCEzp0TYOdQkhhoqtyS9BuzRqfoc9wqcACLcBGAs/s640/22894147_2061827437384397_2786637793703359024_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*1918 outfit</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3luB7hm4uvM/WkxPvh888sI/AAAAAAAABrM/l4YUUuTCDL0pAJ3VNgCz8wwz4EYVbfyIwCLcBGAs/s1600/23244554_2063937767173364_1384734129837621634_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="658" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3luB7hm4uvM/WkxPvh888sI/AAAAAAAABrM/l4YUUuTCDL0pAJ3VNgCz8wwz4EYVbfyIwCLcBGAs/s640/23244554_2063937767173364_1384734129837621634_n.jpg" width="438" /></a></div>
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*1840s Cloak</div>
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*1860s corset and drawers</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xZVpdFG-k7I/WkxPwagEweI/AAAAAAAABrY/RQc0znwzj-sM0645lL6SqgQHTHFmDttYQCLcBGAs/s1600/25289336_2088433288057145_7783285093167513380_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xZVpdFG-k7I/WkxPwagEweI/AAAAAAAABrY/RQc0znwzj-sM0645lL6SqgQHTHFmDttYQCLcBGAs/s640/25289336_2088433288057145_7783285093167513380_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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*Black silk mantle and pink silk petticoat</div>
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*Green silk calask and cream wool mitts</div>
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-14099900135550434862017-07-01T15:51:00.001-04:002017-07-01T15:51:45.346-04:00Where Has the Year Gone?It's officially July... When did that happen??<br />
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I've been sewing nonstop (in spite of my wrist) but I haven't updated either of my blogs in a very long time. It's much easier for me to update<a href="https://www.facebook.com/thecouturecourtesan/"> my Facebook page</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/couturecourtesan/">Instagram</a>, so that is where most of the pictures of my finished work has been going.<br />
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Here's some of what I've been up to. You can check out my Facebook page for more info on these projects. I do still plan to do proper blog posts in the future, but not as frequently as you'll be seeing new content on FB and Instagram. So check those out!<br />
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<img alt="Image may contain: 1 person, standing and outdoor" height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18447236_1948474982052977_198322429400399765_n.jpg?oh=553f361cb5fcddae1537a32fcfeb94cb&oe=59CBDDEE" width="425" /><br />
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<img alt="Image may contain: 1 person, standing, ocean, sky, outdoor and nature" height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18582650_1953897774844031_7077145749489502059_n.jpg?oh=95b835d8d688b3ddb2772ebcb48a4566&oe=59DE64AA" width="480" /><br />
<img alt="Image may contain: one or more people" height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18620138_1955643004669508_4001217735490415203_n.jpg?oh=c222da907d7eef51f4a1bccc7fbc9f71&oe=59CAF9BF" width="517" /><br />
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<img alt="Image may contain: one or more people, people standing and indoor" height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19510610_1974580379442437_5282539118355573835_n.jpg?oh=4b447368b0369da347ab461361dcc59e&oe=59D1F4BA" width="480" /><br />
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<img alt="Image may contain: 3 people, people standing, child and outdoor" height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17634697_1932110847022724_2423185666393113739_n.jpg?oh=170d8e6e7c101160bb24e84d2190df31&oe=59D5DEB7" width="640" /><br />
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<img alt="No automatic alt text available." height="640" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18920656_1962864167280725_702696957297184269_n.jpg?oh=4f0c69a524546f2a492ecde1a0f3696b&oe=5A0B11CA" width="640" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-67916992386064546152017-03-09T19:57:00.001-05:002017-03-09T19:58:31.827-05:00Under and Over: 1860s Half Mourning Cotton Dress and Cage Crinoline<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VACAeWZoFD4/WMH2yr9tMZI/AAAAAAAABqA/WQxNMF5KjzYZEiaLR5xg7NA01DsHqBkcwCLcB/s1600/IMG_6535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VACAeWZoFD4/WMH2yr9tMZI/AAAAAAAABqA/WQxNMF5KjzYZEiaLR5xg7NA01DsHqBkcwCLcB/s640/IMG_6535.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Last weekend I once more had my 1860s mourning display set up at a local Civil War reenactment. About a week before the event, I decided it would be </span><strike style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">crazy</strike><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> totally reasonable to finish the half mourning printed cotton dress that I started two years ago. I'm glad I pushed through and finished it because I'm quite pleased with the dress even though it's cotton (what can I say, I love silk and wool!).</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">To make a cotton dress more interesting, I did a yoked bodice with pleats and piping and played a tiny bit with the directions of the stripes. The bishop sleeve, while not really flattering, is useful if I ever want to roll up the sleeves in a working environment like cooking or doing laundry. The bodice is only partially lined in the yoke and in a strip under each arm, as seen in a few originals like </span><a data-cke-saved-href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037652088879/" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037652088879/" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">this yoked dress</a><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">.</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3930/32965377380_5563cfe718_z.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3930/32965377380_5563cfe718_z.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3803/33347866705_5b9f2b9cb6_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3803/33347866705_5b9f2b9cb6_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3703/32965380510_53dd27a2b3_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3703/32965380510_53dd27a2b3_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/713/32965382300_2bb862d7db_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/713/32965382300_2bb862d7db_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><br />
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<a href="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2882/32506908294_3b85fd433a_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2882/32506908294_3b85fd433a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">I also thought it was about time to photograph my Needle and Thread 116" cage crinoline and petticoat that were made last year. This kit is so incredible... If you're serious about 1860s clothing, it's completely worth the investment as every single piece is perfectly reproduced from originals. I got the 110" kit and squeezed it out to 116". Looking back, I should have called up Needle and Thread and asked for a few extra yards of hooping because they have excellent customer service and I could have made the cage 120" like I originally wanted. 116" is fine, though, and looks very nice under my black and white checked silk dress (I'm not wearing it in the pictures above because the skirt for the cotton dress was cut to fit over my old 108" hoop). Because of the considerable back thrust of the crinoline, I need to make a little bum pad to support the back of the crinoline and keep it from tipping forward. But I'm trying not to feel too badly about it because </span><a data-cke-saved-href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037652155519/" href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/73465037652155519/" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">this original is doing the same thing</a><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">! ;-)</span><br />
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<img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3930/33307313866_0315f5a9d5_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3930/33307313866_0315f5a9d5_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/660/33307311746_4e1a072fac_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/660/33307311746_4e1a072fac_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3817/33307312806_4782728444_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3817/33307312806_4782728444_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3672/33307310666_00353f2ab4_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3672/33307310666_00353f2ab4_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/590/33220237421_e121889ab8_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/590/33220237421_e121889ab8_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2915/33307307536_4210b75880_b.jpg" height="450" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2915/33307307536_4210b75880_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">The petticoat was inspired by </span><a data-cke-saved-href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159335" href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/159335" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">this original at the Met</a><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">, and others like it.</span><br />
<img data-cke-saved-src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/50.10.17_CP4.jpg" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/50.10.17_CP4.jpg" lj-cmd="LJImage" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-89144326019637598792016-12-30T16:51:00.002-05:002016-12-30T16:51:06.888-05:002017 Plans<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">My hand is really hurting right now, so I almost feel foolish for writing this out... But daydreaming about sewing plans still makes me happy, so *shrug*.</span><br />
<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Right now I'm dying to start the historical Star Wars cosplay I came up with last night. I finally struck on an idea that I really like and would be easy to make (no hard-to-find fabrics or intricate accessories and I don't mind using undergarments I already have). I've got a couple months' lull now that it's winter and I think it would be pretty quick to make. </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">So... here's Edwardian (c.1904) Leia! I just bought the fabric, too, a silk/cotton blend ottomon (ribbed). Still need to figure out what to do for the belt, but that can definitely wait until the dress is finished.</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/306/31854996611_b745ed3d74_b.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/306/31854996611_b745ed3d74_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Next will be either a cotton print sack gown or a 1560s ensemble. It all depends on if I can go back home for Faire in May. Unfortunately these gowns are pretty labor intensive and would have due-dates within a month of each other, so I don't know if I can pull off both. But we'll see!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.64.32.3ab_F.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.64.32.3ab_F.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="384" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/36/32/5f/36325fd0bdb6ddae41da1ecf829b2871.jpg" height="500" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/36/32/5f/36325fd0bdb6ddae41da1ecf829b2871.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="375" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Finally, I have three gowns that need to be made for a very special event in September, one of which I'm embroidering! I've already got the skirt panels ready to start working on, so hopefully it will be finished in time... </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Then it will be time to get ready for Gettysburg in November, and I think I'll finally make a new full mourning dress. The fabric has been waiting very patiently in my stash!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/5f/c5/bd/5fc5bd33630f1e8f8a2a0394d01bd0a2.jpg" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/5f/c5/bd/5fc5bd33630f1e8f8a2a0394d01bd0a2.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="411" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-19164720390198615582016-12-24T21:43:00.000-05:002016-12-24T21:43:19.979-05:002016 Year in Review<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">
I feel like I was constantly sewing something this year but have very little to show for it. In truth, I think I spent many nights after work just being lazy, as I'm finding it harder to come home after sewing all day to...sewing all night. And as I mentioned in a previous post, my wrist/hand is still causing me problems even after the surgery. I'm planning to see my doctor in the new year but I'm not hopeful.<br />
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In addition to sewing at work and sewing at home for myself, I took commissions for two other museums, which I didn't get pictures of before sending them off. But my work is now on display at Mount Vernon and the New York Historical Society.<br />
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Another issue is that there are quite a few garments that I made this year but haven't gotten pictures of, or they're wearable but not "finished" and thus not photographed. But hopefully I can start taking care of that in the new year, at least for my 1860s ball gown and 1616 gown.</div>
<ul style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; padding-right: 40px;">
<li><a data-cke-saved-href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/04/half-mourning-dress-of-win.html" href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/04/half-mourning-dress-of-win.html" lj-cmd="LJLink2">Half Mourning Dress remake </a></li>
<li><a data-cke-saved-href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/08/early-1780s-dutch-print-italian-gown.html" href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/08/early-1780s-dutch-print-italian-gown.html" lj-cmd="LJLink2">1780s Dutch print gown</a></li>
<li>1616 silk damask gown--needs pictures</li>
<li><a data-cke-saved-href="http://reine-de-coudre.livejournal.com/225580.html" href="http://reine-de-coudre.livejournal.com/225580.html" lj-cmd="LJLink2">1860s black satin ball gown</a>--needs a bit of work... adjust waistband of skirt, maybe make a new bertha, redo the piping along the waistline--and then pictures!</li>
<li>Fur-trimmed paletot--need to finish trim then take pictures</li>
<li>1860s tucked petticoat--needs pictures</li>
<li>1860s cage crinoline--needs pictures</li>
<li><a data-cke-saved-href="http://reine-de-coudre.livejournal.com/225512.html" href="http://reine-de-coudre.livejournal.com/225512.html" lj-cmd="LJLink2">Late 18th century shift</a></li>
<li><a data-cke-saved-href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/12/early-seventeenth-century-wool-gown.html" href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2016/12/early-seventeenth-century-wool-gown.html" lj-cmd="LJLink2">Early 17th century wool gown</a></li>
<li>1842 green wool dress--need to do the bodice trim then take pictures, but here's a sneak peak!</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3HcvMqLjUmQ/WF8yN1Zfu_I/AAAAAAAABpo/sAchjLGy94IlMi1m7_4OikbsDSVjr978wCLcB/s1600/IMG_6090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3HcvMqLjUmQ/WF8yN1Zfu_I/AAAAAAAABpo/sAchjLGy94IlMi1m7_4OikbsDSVjr978wCLcB/s320/IMG_6090.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">It's probably worth noting too that I organized and ran a conference at work and got a raise and promotion!</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Even thought I didn't sew a lot, I went to many wonderful events (like Costume College!) and had a great time with friends regardless of if I was wearing an "old" dress. Next year promises to have some great events as well. I haven't quite figured out what my 2017 sewing goals are, but there will be a blog post when I do!</span>Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-2393355749816026992016-12-12T20:26:00.000-05:002016-12-12T20:26:03.944-05:00Early Seventeenth Century Wool Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6EQ3Hxw_Is/WE9OGcmYyaI/AAAAAAAABpY/lFUVWsSK2FIzs9jiJPXqbrLhubUpK23qQCLcB/s1600/15171093_1860978150802661_2398242869523417258_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6EQ3Hxw_Is/WE9OGcmYyaI/AAAAAAAABpY/lFUVWsSK2FIzs9jiJPXqbrLhubUpK23qQCLcB/s640/15171093_1860978150802661_2398242869523417258_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">I've been wanting to make a new early 17th century gown for some time now, mostly because I have learned so much since I made my green wool outfit. </span><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">The idea behind the gown was for it to be representative of a common woman's Sunday/holiday best. This year's Publick Day event was the perfect excuse, although I waffled over whether or not to make something new until about two weeks before the event. So this gown was handsewn in two weeks, amid work and everything else. Michael blocked new hats for both of us. He is becoming quite the talented hatter!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">These pictures are from the gown's third wearing, on Thanksgiving for my work's annual event. Someday I'll starch my darn cuffs enough that they won't start going wonky after a few minutes! I'm wearing the gown over my newest petticoat with upperbodies.</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Ignore the white threads all over me; I was sewing a shirt!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/557/30799791633_528c771ba2_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/557/30799791633_528c771ba2_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/715/31609604185_238e1e2563_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/715/31609604185_238e1e2563_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/621/30799791713_588af5fda2_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/621/30799791713_588af5fda2_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/451/30799791763_efdcf45c63_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/451/30799791763_efdcf45c63_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/31609604205_5f11d2d412_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/31609604205_5f11d2d412_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-47592138660821839342016-11-21T21:02:00.001-05:002016-11-21T21:02:16.633-05:00Gettysburg Remembrance Day 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LvV2jTUdMi4/WDOmua5tl8I/AAAAAAAABpA/ucTfhAAVTJo4y6XIkCSqPv06q-BSwOUMQCLcB/s1600/IMG_6003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LvV2jTUdMi4/WDOmua5tl8I/AAAAAAAABpA/ucTfhAAVTJo4y6XIkCSqPv06q-BSwOUMQCLcB/s640/IMG_6003.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Emma and I had a fantastic time at Remembrance Day this year. I got to visit and catch up with so many old reenacting friends and meet some lovely new ones. It made me realize how much I miss reenacting... It feels like we never get out to events since we moved to Virginia. We were much more active in Michigan! There are still things to do around here, but it's not the same, at least for me. I miss the camaraderie of being in a unit. </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">The weather for the most part was FANTASTIC, so much so that I didn't really bother to finish my paletot. It was wearable but definitely not picture-ready. But almost immediately after the parade ended, the winter squall blew in and it hailed. Yes, hailed. I've never seen weather turn so quickly in my life!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">We attended one of the balls and a tea and I had my picture made. I can't begin to tell you just how pleased I am with this tin type. I haven't been able to capture with my phone just how crisp the real image is. And I'm really pleased with my outfit. I try to get tin types made whenever I can because for me it's about the process of creating an image so authentic it could be mistaken for the real thing. I think we got fairly close this time. ;-)</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">I did finish my black ball gown, but didn't get any good pictures of it. Plus I wasn't happy with how the bertha turned out and have already ordered new lace for it! So it will get pictures and a blog post once that arrives. Here's a peak at the skirt, for now.</span><br />
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<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Can't wait for next year! </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5670/31023546182_c11bc0e9d4_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5670/31023546182_c11bc0e9d4_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="560" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5763/31052871541_6e91c0af58_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5763/31052871541_6e91c0af58_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5481/30345563654_99c23bb955_b.jpg" height="525" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5481/30345563654_99c23bb955_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="700" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">We took two trips to Needle and Thread... I got some basics like brown and black polished cotton for linings and facings and white cotton sateen for new Regency stays. My big splurge was worsted wool flannel in the most amazing green color for a secret project (sorry!) which was priced almost twice what I like to pay for worsteds but I couldn't pass up that color. It's the same color as the 1840s dress I started, which I need to finish for Agecroft in two weeks! Then I got a pretty striped cotton for probably something Regency and a sheer striped black silk for an 1860s sheer dress.</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5814/31052883751_b266165105_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5814/31052883751_b266165105_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5525/31130894206_c89499bced_b.jpg" height="525" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5525/31130894206_c89499bced_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="700" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5544/31052883111_c822fce4cd_b.jpg" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5544/31052883111_c822fce4cd_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-right: 10px;" width="900" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-84868945815889710172016-11-07T21:46:00.000-05:002016-11-07T21:46:52.050-05:00Felicity's Suprise: At Last!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--mcMaiQI_24/WCE7iSGhfmI/AAAAAAAABos/zNPkYmu-w-8S65RHXg43xnRpVYhxEJXXgCLcB/s1600/IMG_5950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--mcMaiQI_24/WCE7iSGhfmI/AAAAAAAABos/zNPkYmu-w-8S65RHXg43xnRpVYhxEJXXgCLcB/s640/IMG_5950.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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My grown-up version of Felicity's Christmas gown is done at last! You can read all about the design process over at <a href="http://reine-de-coudre.livejournal.com/225148.html">my Livejournal</a>. There are a few more pictures over there too, and at <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/51732491@N02/albums/72157672631910724">Flickr</a>.<br />
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<br />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-33056270875675408782016-08-31T20:36:00.001-04:002016-08-31T20:36:26.845-04:00Early 1780s Dutch Print Italian Gown<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--bZln-Z_5Jc/V8d38aQ1AZI/AAAAAAAABoU/b8S2_Xwe-AgEeR4OH84-ZWS5HAbnayHNACLcB/s1600/IMG_5301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--bZln-Z_5Jc/V8d38aQ1AZI/AAAAAAAABoU/b8S2_Xwe-AgEeR4OH84-ZWS5HAbnayHNACLcB/s640/IMG_5301.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">This ended up being my favorite gown to wear at Costume College. Comfortable and easy to wear!</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">The gown is entirely hand sewn using period construction methods and was draped on the body. I wore it with fine muslin wrist ruffles, kerchief, and petticoat, as well as the beautiful silk gauze apron that Emma made for my birthday.</span><br />
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<img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8015/29264078172_169e554b68_b.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8015/29264078172_169e554b68_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8411/29338346506_6d78eac117_c.jpg" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8411/29338346506_6d78eac117_c.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" /><br />
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<img data-cke-saved-src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8181/29338618786_ec60b19f5e_b.jpg" height="525" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8181/29338618786_ec60b19f5e_b.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="700" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-18292131285345442562016-08-30T21:26:00.000-04:002016-08-30T21:26:21.868-04:00A Gown for Gettysburg<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify;">I meant to do a write up about Costume College, but it never happened... Doing it now seems too late! I had a good time this year but I still felt like I missed hanging out with people as much as I would have liked. For some reason I was exhausted the whole time and went to bed super early each night... which I really regret now but at the time I just couldn't handle it. Sad...</span><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify;">But I've been very busy since then with lots of sewing. I need to finish a commission for a museum by the end of September and then I can go full steam into my wardrobe for Gettysburg Remembrance Day in November. I plan to wear my black and white checked silk gown during the day but with a new black wool paletot trimmed in black fur. And I talked myself into a new ball gown for the Friday night ball!</span><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify;">Yes, it's a black ball gown. :) I'm making it out of silk/cotton satin and it will be trimmed with antique black lace and lots of ridiculous bows. It makes my little black heart happy! Here's my Pinterest board on black evening gowns:</span><a href="https://www.pinterest.com/reinedecoudre/black-evening-gown/" rel="nofollow" style="border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-width: 1px; font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 16px; text-align: justify; text-decoration: none;">https://www.pinterest.com/reinedecoudre/b<wbr></wbr>lack-evening-gown/</a><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 19.6px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 19.6px; text-align: justify;">I also need to finish adding tucks to my petticoat, and I desperately need new drawers and a chemise as well. And also a new corset! So lots to do before November 18!</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: Garamond, serif; font-size: 13.3333px; line-height: 19.6px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span></span>Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-44570898284230130662016-07-24T13:02:00.001-04:002016-07-24T13:02:10.560-04:00Getting closer...!<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">My Gala gown is wearable! I would say it's done but I just remembered a few things I want to neaten up. But I'm really excited to wear it! It was a huge pain for the longest time and I'm still not happy with the fit, but oh well. </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Can't wait to see you all at Costume College!</span><br />
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">I don't even know where to begin...</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">So much has happened in the past two weeks, but I don't have the energy or dexterity to write out a detailed post on it all. You may have noticed my previous posts about the 17th century clothing conference I helped organize. Well, it finally happened last weekend! It really was just my boss and me running this show, which was horrendously exhausting but so worth it in the end. The feedback we have had from our participants and presenters is just overwhelming. The conference included tours, workshops, lectures, and interpretive demos. Everyone had a fantastic time and learned so much. We assembled a veritable powerhouse of 16th and 17th century clothing historians and costumers, including The Tudor Tailor, and it all took place at Jamestown Settlement. We partied in the reconstructed fort and ate fantastic food, and watched the sun set over the James River from the deck of one of the recreated ships. It really couldn't get much better than that!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">But right after a showstopping weekend, I went right into wrist surgery. It was just time to get it over with. That means all sewing has come to a screeching halt, and everyday tasks are pretty painful, including typing! So while I want to gush about what a fantastic event I helped put on and how much I learned, I physically can't. I also am desperate to sew but, again, I can't. My doctor is quite sure that the surgery will be the cure to my troubles, but I won't really know until everything is healed up. I'm less confident. I just hope I can finish the last few things I need to do before Costume College...</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Here's just a few pictures from the conference, and links to other folks' albums. There are too many great pictures to share them all here!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Jen Thies' photos from the weekend: </span><a data-cke-saved-href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/52716085@N00/sets/72157670331598125" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/52716085@N00/sets/72157670331598125" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">https://www.flickr.com/photos/52716085@N00/sets/72157670331598125</a><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">From the fort party, by Fred Scholpp:</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;"> </span><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13524432_10207678723458500_4110294126983706775_n.jpg?oh=c1f534f9d5f83d84cc8c3667033f0a87&oe=57F9E0F3" height="536" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13524432_10207678723458500_4110294126983706775_n.jpg?oh=c1f534f9d5f83d84cc8c3667033f0a87&oe=57F9E0F3" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="700" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13567486_10207678785380048_2785874612478965921_n.jpg?oh=d6d019cbee37fd9da2f7b140772f092e&oe=5804975C" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13567486_10207678785380048_2785874612478965921_n.jpg?oh=d6d019cbee37fd9da2f7b140772f092e&oe=5804975C" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="470" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">By Victoria Dye:</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13438963_986978364756425_1336172669739499912_n.jpg?oh=21e59379e77f74adc39bb9d2bf137d8d&oe=57FE39BE" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13438963_986978364756425_1336172669739499912_n.jpg?oh=21e59379e77f74adc39bb9d2bf137d8d&oe=57FE39BE" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="495" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">And a couple of me in hospital and my wrist! :-P</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13439066_10207969687973647_103065991172469662_n.jpg?oh=275a463627543cc32da5c9fdce656ff7&oe=5835FD0C" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13439066_10207969687973647_103065991172469662_n.jpg?oh=275a463627543cc32da5c9fdce656ff7&oe=5835FD0C" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><br />
<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13439091_10207952317419394_4574037029770846864_n.jpg?oh=c6ce703603678aaf1132e9c512d5e758&oe=5807D0E0" height="700" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13439091_10207952317419394_4574037029770846864_n.jpg?oh=c6ce703603678aaf1132e9c512d5e758&oe=5807D0E0" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="525" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-83343445661486071962016-05-10T10:50:00.001-04:002016-05-10T10:50:26.783-04:00Come See The Tudor Tailor in Virginia!<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">As part of the three day conference at Jamestown Settlement, The Tudor Tailor is giving an entertaining presentation on June 24 that is open to the public! </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #141823; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.32px;">After the presentation, you can shop at The Tudor Tailor store, chat with Jane and Ninya, and examine reconstructed garments, all while enjoying complimentary refreshments. Organizing this conference has been the biggest project of my short career, and I'd love for you to be there!<br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #453d38; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;">This presentation on </span><strong style="color: #453d38; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;">June 24, 2016 from 7-9 p.m</strong><span style="background-color: white; color: #453d38; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;">. by The Tudor Tailor is based on exciting new research to be published in their next book, </span><em style="color: #453d38; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;">The Typical Tudor</em><span style="background-color: white; color: #453d38; font-family: Verdana; font-size: 12px; line-height: 18px;">.</span><br />
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<strong><br />'As I lie dying'</strong></div>
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See inside the wardrobes of two Elizabethan women living in England in the 1570s and go through their garments to discover how very differently they live their lives. Barbara Bundock, a much-married merchant’s widow, and Margery Trollope, a soap and candlemaker, meet for a gossip and to enjoy their favourite conversation – the ailments they suffer and their imminent gathering to heaven, which they have discussed weekly for more years than either can remember. Each is blessed with clothes that represent their wealth and standing among their neighbours. They are competitively well-informed as to the relative value of their dress: the raw materials, where they come from, who made them and how they rival each other in quality and cost. But their clothes also carry a heavy burden of responsibility as tokens to be passed on to friends and family. Not only must they decide who is most deserving of their own garments, there are many items of their husbands’, which demonstrate their doings in more detail than is necessarily comfortable. Barbara and Margery assess which of their grasping friends and family may benefit from the best rather than the worst items on offer.</div>
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Join Jane and Ninya for this lively presentation and dressing demonstration which draws on the wealth of material gathered by The Tudor Tailor team since the publication of The Tudor Tailor ten years ago, and gives enjoyable insights into the exciting new content of their forthcoming book The Typical Tudor.</div>
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Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-1800035974040938042016-04-23T10:25:00.001-04:002016-04-23T10:25:19.281-04:00Instagram Update<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">I'd been working on my 1780s Dutch print gown but had to set it aside to finish a commission for a museum. While I don't take commissions from private customers (I know better than that now! I genuinely dislike it...), I do make exceptions for museums. The gown just needs sleeves cut, sewn, and attached, and then it's done! The tiny pleats were a headache and they aren't as even on the inside as I would like, but the outside looks great and that's what matters, right?</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J12OW5Z693w/VxuFpZSOmbI/AAAAAAAABm8/vvzkM4nK1J8UN6uB6W9ae_4-09rRx3rsACLcB/s1600/IMG_4708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J12OW5Z693w/VxuFpZSOmbI/AAAAAAAABm8/vvzkM4nK1J8UN6uB6W9ae_4-09rRx3rsACLcB/s640/IMG_4708.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12994357_10207413507149474_3921107433748451908_n.jpg?oh=fb18daf9a6decd56fa6f0e7091390b99&oe=57B2B9FE" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12994357_10207413507149474_3921107433748451908_n.jpg?oh=fb18daf9a6decd56fa6f0e7091390b99&oe=57B2B9FE" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;"> </span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Yesterday a bunch of the materials for my secret (?) Gala gown arrived! I'm so excited to start this, but commission first...</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/13092113_10207492235277628_8209016411303220553_n.jpg?oh=0ec796050432c91d8911bbd07de2d9d6&oe=57BEC222" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/13092113_10207492235277628_8209016411303220553_n.jpg?oh=0ec796050432c91d8911bbd07de2d9d6&oe=57BEC222" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Other things occupying my mind and my time have been taking more time and care in my outfits and appearance. Some recent favorites...</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13043322_10207485898319208_8933250636031394098_n.jpg?oh=05bde92ca54df4385e5441eb12e2108d&oe=5773296F" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13043322_10207485898319208_8933250636031394098_n.jpg?oh=05bde92ca54df4385e5441eb12e2108d&oe=5773296F" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13807_10207355353855678_8264382317839779086_n.jpg?oh=00a59fedcbce56a8ab0e7109706716d0&oe=57BE064E" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent.forf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13807_10207355353855678_8264382317839779086_n.jpg?oh=00a59fedcbce56a8ab0e7109706716d0&oe=57BE064E" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="600" />Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-945055114824026819.post-10481387953142412542016-04-18T11:46:00.003-04:002016-04-18T11:46:48.895-04:00Canary in a Coal Mine<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">I bought seven yards of this silk satin because the price was good, but I had no idea what I was going to do with it.</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><img data-cke-saved-src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/13006732_10207464840712781_8145705258130370156_n.jpg?oh=39253088ca551ce2e47428a7c2497689&oe=577F00F7" height="600" lj-cmd="LJImage" src="https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/13006732_10207464840712781_8145705258130370156_n.jpg?oh=39253088ca551ce2e47428a7c2497689&oe=577F00F7" style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px; margin-right: 10px;" width="450" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Then Crimson Peak came out. :)</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">So someday... hopefully in the not-too-distant future, I'll make a gown inspired by Edith's!</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;"> </span><br />
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<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/bf/5a/8a/bf5a8a5d5bc2ca0b5c174a80083f7707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/bf/5a/8a/bf5a8a5d5bc2ca0b5c174a80083f7707.jpg" width="398" /></a></div>
<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">Check out this FIDM blog post for some AMAZING detail and in-progress shots of the iconic costumes.</span><br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;" /><a data-cke-saved-href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/04/crimson-peak.html" href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/04/crimson-peak.html" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.6px;">http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2016/04/crimson-peak.html</a>Samanthahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16817358665338090584noreply@blogger.com5